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Potting Shed

I saw these pictures and needed to list them here so I could make my area this beautiful and useful..  ET

My Potting Shed ~ My Favorite Place to Be in the Summer!

Looking forward to Spring & being able to get back out in my Potting Shed !!!……Some photos of my Potting Shed ~ my creative space where I love to hang out!

How To Make Biodegradable Mini Planters From Toilet Paper Rolls

 

These are really easy to make and will decompose into the soil.. ET

Homepage Image: Flickr/girlingearstudio

1. Reuse germination

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Photo: Flickr/girlingearstudio
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If you’re starting plants from seeds this year, don’t waste your hard-earned cash on tiny planters from the garden center. Save a few bucks – and get a little more use out of your throw-aways – by making your own seed-starters from recycled materials!

To make your own biodegradable mini-planter (that’s right, no transplanting!), you will need scissors and a toilet paper or paper towel roll.

How to make it:

1. Using scissors, cut six to eight small slits in the end of your toilet paper roll (if using a paper towel roll, cut the roll into three pieces before beginning this step).

2. Fold the strips down so they overlap.

3. Fill carefully with wet soil, and set in a baking sheet.

4. Plant one seed per roll. After germination, just plant the whole thing in your garden! If you don’t mind transplanting your seedlings, you can use all kinds of recyclables for germination: Takeout containers, plastic cups, soda bottles and shoe boxes – just to name a few.

Proper Pruning Techniques..

How To: Plant Seeds Using Eggshells

 

 I want to try this come seed planting time… ET

We were excited when our Sprout Robot alert went off that it was time to start broccoli seeds indoors this weekend for our zip code. With the move and being in the midst of colder months, we are seriously lacking in the gardening department, except for our avocado sprouts(which we have an exciting update on coming tomorrow).

We located our organic broccoli seed packet from last year’s garden and hit up our gardening Pinterest boards (mine & hers) where we’ve been collecting ideas for creative planting all winter. We had one particular idea we’d seen pinned in mind and couldn’t wait to try for ourselves — eggshell seed planters.

Evidently, eggshells make the perfect size seed starters, are natural, biodegradable, can be planted directly into the soil after being cracked a little, and supply nourishment to the plant and surrounding soil (not to mention they’re free).

After saving the shells from this week’s eggs, we set out to make our eggshell planters. Today we’re sharing just how we went about it for those of you that might also want to give it a whirl as planting season starts up!

You’ll Need:

  • Eggs
  • Egg carton
  • Seeds
  • Planting soil
  • Small spoon
  • Spray bottle
  • Awl, or wide sharp needle

1. When cracking the eggshells, slice the top part of the egg (narrower end) with a sharp knife and gently pour the egg from the opening for use.

2. Reserve eggshells, rinse well inside and out with water. For extra caution, we decided to boil the shells for a few minutes to make sure all traces of egg were cleaned out. You can see how the shells foamed up a bit, letting us know we hadn’t gotten everything out with the simple rinse.

3. Rinse eggshells again, and gently place them back in their egg carton to dry. Once dry, gently chip any rough edges of the eggs to desired opening size.

4. Use awl, or wide sharp needle to gently puncture a single hole in the base of the eggshell. This will create a drainage hole for your egg planter. I punctured our shells from the inside against a thin kitchen towel, then reinforced through the back-end to ensure proper drainage could take place. During this step, you may have to remove parts of the thin membrane alongside the eggshell.

5. Place eggshells back in carton and spray gently with water using your spray bottle.

6. With a small spoon, gently scoop planting or potting soil into eggshell to fill (we went withBurpee organic seed starting mix). You may want to gently shake egg to even out soil.

7. Plant seeds according to directions to determine depth and any other special care.

8. Spritz again gently with spray bottle and place in well lit area with sun indoors.

9. Water plants accordingly, watch and wait for your seedlings to sprout.


10. Once sprouts have grown large enough to transfer, thin them out and plant directly into the ground or larger planter after gently cracking the eggshell around them. The roots will grow beyond the eggshell into the soil, the shell will continue to provide nourishment to the plant and surrounding soil, and will eventually will biodegrade.

It took our seeds just a few days to sprout up in their eggshell planters — much faster than they have in the past with plastic containers we’ve used. We’ll keep you posted on the progress of our little broccoli plants and hope you’ll let us know if you give it a whirl!

If you’re as eager to try out this project as we were, plug in your zip code to Sprout Robot and see what seed varieties are ready for indoor planting in your area.

How To: Plant Seeds Using Eggshells

 

 I’d like to try this… ET

We were excited when our Sprout Robot alert went off that it was time to start broccoli seeds indoors this weekend for our zip code. With the move and being in the midst of colder months, we are seriously lacking in the gardening department, except for our avocado sprouts(which we have an exciting update on coming tomorrow).

We located our organic broccoli seed packet from last year’s garden and hit up our gardening Pinterest boards (mine & hers) where we’ve been collecting ideas for creative planting all winter. We had one particular idea we’d seen pinned in mind and couldn’t wait to try for ourselves — eggshell seed planters.

Evidently, eggshells make the perfect size seed starters, are natural, biodegradable, can be planted directly into the soil after being cracked a little, and supply nourishment to the plant and surrounding soil (not to mention they’re free).

After saving the shells from this week’s eggs, we set out to make our eggshell planters. Today we’re sharing just how we went about it for those of you that might also want to give it a whirl as planting season starts up!

You’ll Need:

  • Eggs
  • Egg carton
  • Seeds
  • Planting soil
  • Small spoon
  • Spray bottle
  • Awl, or wide sharp needle

1. When cracking the eggshells, slice the top part of the egg (narrower end) with a sharp knife and gently pour the egg from the opening for use.

2. Reserve eggshells, rinse well inside and out with water. For extra caution, we decided to boil the shells for a few minutes to make sure all traces of egg were cleaned out. You can see how the shells foamed up a bit, letting us know we hadn’t gotten everything out with the simple rinse.

3. Rinse eggshells again, and gently place them back in their egg carton to dry. Once dry, gently chip any rough edges of the eggs to desired opening size.

4. Use awl, or wide sharp needle to gently puncture a single hole in the base of the eggshell. This will create a drainage hole for your egg planter. I punctured our shells from the inside against a thin kitchen towel, then reinforced through the back-end to ensure proper drainage could take place. During this step, you may have to remove parts of the thin membrane alongside the eggshell.

5. Place eggshells back in carton and spray gently with water using your spray bottle.

6. With a small spoon, gently scoop planting or potting soil into eggshell to fill (we went withBurpee organic seed starting mix). You may want to gently shake egg to even out soil.

7. Plant seeds according to directions to determine depth and any other special care.

8. Spritz again gently with spray bottle and place in well lit area with sun indoors.

9. Water plants accordingly, watch and wait for your seedlings to sprout.


10. Once sprouts have grown large enough to transfer, thin them out and plant directly into the ground or larger planter after gently cracking the eggshell around them. The roots will grow beyond the eggshell into the soil, the shell will continue to provide nourishment to the plant and surrounding soil, and will eventually will biodegrade.

It took our seeds just a few days to sprout up in their eggshell planters — much faster than they have in the past with plastic containers we’ve used. We’ll keep you posted on the progress of our little broccoli plants and hope you’ll let us know if you give it a whirl!

If you’re as eager to try out this project as we were, plug in your zip code to Sprout Robot and see what seed varieties are ready for indoor planting in your area.

Growing Ginger

I have some so I’m going to try this…ET

By Greenthumb On June 28, 2011

Ginger Roots

Ginger Roots

Have you tried growing ginger yet?

Ginger, known as Zingiber officinale or official ginger is a very easy herb to grow. Even better? You can probably find a start at the grocery store.

This is not the tropical ginger with flashy blooms that you see in Hawaiian photos, but rather the ginger root you use in gingerbread! If you grow your own you can use it fresh or even dry it.

If you can find an organic piece of ginger root with some eye buds forming (sort of like the eyes on a potato) you will have a ginger plant sooner rather than later.

 

Gigner roots- eye buds

Ginger Roots-See the Green Eye Buds?

Although it is easy to grow in a container or in the garden, Ginger has a few requirements for growing well.

  • It likes warmth.
  • It likes partial shade.
  • It likes moist, rich soil.

If you can provide these things, you can grow your own ginger root!

Here’s the “Ginger Growing 4-1-1″ :

Find a nice ginger root (known as a rhizome) at the store. Look for eye bud swellings.

If you can get them, an organic rhizome is probably better because non organic roots may be treated with a growth inhibitor, and you may want to eat your root at some point! If you can’t find anything else, grab the non organic anyway and give it a try. Organic or not, I have never had one NOT grow!

If you have a large root with several eye growth buds, you can break the root into several pieces, each with an eye bud and plant them all!

Dig your spot in the garden, or use a good potting mix and fill your container nearly full. Plant the ginger just an inch or two beneath the soil, making sure the eye buds are pointing upward!

planting ginger root

Ginger root with growth buds facing up!

Cover the root and water.

A 12″ pot can probably handle two roots, larger containers can handle another one or two. Plastic is best, roots can get ‘stuck’ in terra cotta and you may shatter pots when digging the roots.

Make sure you keep the rhizomes moist, out of bright direct sun and wind.

Compared to other herbs, Ginger plants are ‘slow pokes’ when it comes to growing. They will eventually reach a height of  2 feet or more in a container and may hit a height of 2 to 3 feet in the garden.

growing ginger in a container

Ginger growing nicely!

You can harvest your rhizomes at any time after the plant has grown for several months, but the longer you can keep the plant growing the larger your harvest will be. You may notice the rhizome has some roots. You can just cut them off and use the ginger root, or save a piece (with a growth bud) for re-planting!

You may also notice new ‘buds’ forming at the top of the rhizome. These can be separated and planted for even more ginger!

New Ginger rhizomes

New Ginger Babies!

 

Since I live where it’s cold in the winter I usually start mine in the greenhouse early in Spring, or in the house in February. Once night temperatures are above 60*F I set them out and let them grow all summer. Roots are harvested when the leaves start to die back in the fall- but before a frost. Frost kills the plant and can harm the roots.

If your ginger has been growing awhile you might find the roots have gotten quite a bit larger by the time you harvest!

If you don’t want to harvest just yet-

You can bring the whole pot inside and store it somewhere dry and cool, but not cold. Remember, it’s a tropical plant! Don’t water it. Don’t even look at. Next year when the weather warms you can add some nice compost, set it out where it’s it will be toasty and watch it begin growing again.

You can also keep it in a warm, well lit area and keep it as a houseplant.

Ginger Plant and Root

Ginger Foliage and Root

Zingiber officinale does not produce a showy blossom like many tropical plants, and the way I usually grow mine does not allow time for the plant to bloom anyway. If you overwinter yours, or you live somewhere warm, humid and tropical you might get a few ‘plain Jane’ blooms from your Ginger plant.

Send me a picture if you do!

How to grow a lemon tree from seed

I have lots of lemons and limes, so I need to get planting… ET

When life gives you lemons, grow trees!

If you’ve ever seen a flowering lemon tree, you’ll understand why. For those of you who haven’t, allow me explain. Their lush, dark green, oval leaves have a glossy texture that shimmers in sunlight. Their delicate white flowers bloom with a citrus fragrance and are soft to the touch. Their exotic nature provides an alluring quality. And, finally, they bear the exciting possibility of fruit!

Typically, lemon trees flourish outdoors year-round in hot, sunny regions, but they can also thrive indoors as edible houseplants in cold-season climates. At the organic food store where I work we have a healthy lemon cutting producing massive fruit in a garage setting all year. It makes for an impressive sight during the dead of a Canadian winter!

This is the little tree with big fruit in the shop I work at.

And while rooting cuttings is a sensible option for fast fruit, lemon tree cuttings are not readily available in many parts of the world. But lemons are another story. And although it may take anywhere from 3-6 years for your tree to be capable of producing fruit, there is something extra rewarding about starting from seed. I currently have six strong little seedlings on the go, all of which were germinated in the middle of winter with very little effort. Watching them grow has been an exciting and fascinating experience and I know the best is yet to come.

Here is a step-by-step guide to growing your very own lemon tree from seed:

Things you’ll need:

1. A lemon. Make sure you purchase an organic lemon since some non-organic lemon seeds may be “duds”, incapable of germinating. Any organic lemon will do, but if you have climate or space restrictions, you may want to try looking for a specific variety called a “Meyer” lemon. Meyer lemons are a smaller type of lemon, often grown for ornamental purposes, and are thus better suited for indoor containers. I chose Meyer seeds for these reasons, but you can use any seed that makes sense for your situation.

This is a Meyer lemon!

2. Potting soil. I would guess that any potting soil will do, but I suggest using one with a blend of peat, perlite, vermiculite, and organic fertilizer. Every single one of the seeds I planted in this type of certified organic potting mix have sprouted beautifully, so I think it’s fair to say that it works.

3. Container/pot. A container (with drainage holes) that is 5-6” deep and a few inches in diameter will be sufficient for sprouting; however, the seedling will need to be re-potted into a much larger container. Mature lemon trees prefer a container that is wider rather than deeper, so I suggest planting your seedling in a pot that is 10-16” deep and 12-18” in diameter. Your baby tree will happily make itself at home in this larger container for the next few years, at which time you may want to upgrade again.

4. A grow light or lots of sun. Lemon trees need a lot of light, especially when they are sprouting and require 10-14 hours of it each day. If you don’t have a consistently sunny window (like me), get a grow light. They don’t cost much and will prove their worth in healthy green foliage.

Method for sprouting the lemon seed:

1. Pre-moisten your potting soil. Put some soil into a bucket and mix in some water until the soil is damp all the way through.

2. Fill your container with the pre-moistened soil. Leave about an inch of space below the rim of your container.

3. Slice open your lemon and choose a seed that looks completely full of life. Pop it into your mouth and suck on it until all the flesh is removed and the lemon flavour is gone. Do not allow the seed to dry out at any time. It needs to stay moist in order to germinate. I suggest keeping it in your mouth until you’re ready to plant.

4. Plant your seed! While it’s moist, plant your seed about 1/2″ below the soil level. Cover it completely with soil and water well with a squirt bottle or gentle watering can.

5. Cover your container with breathable plastic to keep your seeds warm and moist. I used a piece of clear garbage bag with holes poked into it and a rubber band to securely hold it in place.

6. Place the container in a warm location and observe for the next few days. Keep in mind: your seed needs warmth and moisture in order to germinate. Don’t allow the potting soil to dry out completely. Also take caution that you don’t cook your seed in its little greenhouse. Too much heat and moisture could lead to a rotten seed! You’re aiming to achieve a nice balance, so if you feel like the soil is warm enough without the plastic then it’s probably safest to remove it.

7. In about two weeks you may notice a sprout emerging from the soil. Once it appears, remove the plastic (if it’s still on) and place the little guy in a warm location with plenty of direct sunlight. Supplement sun with your grow light if needed.

Here are my little guys one month after planting.

At a little less than two months old, this little guy is upgrading to a larger home.

8. Care for your new baby and watch it grow! Provide it with:

  • Water. Ensure that the soil is damp at all times, especially when your lemon tree is young. Do not allow it to sit in a puddle of stagnant water though; those drainage holes are there for good reason.
  • Sunlight. Place it in a warm sunny window where it will receive eight hours of direct sunlight each day, or supplement some sun for a grow light. Since Toronto rarely seems to get any sun in the winter, my sprouts reside in a well-lit window under the warm rays of a grow light for 12 hours each day.
  • Food. In order to keep your lemon tree healthy and growing the soil will eventually need to be replenished with nutrients. I suggest feeding it an organic fertilizer, such as compost or vermicompost, once it has developed a nice little set of leaves. Dig a little trench around the base of your tree, fill it with compost and water it well. Or, serve it up as compost tea. Try feeding it twice a year or as needed, but do not overfeed! When it comes to fertilizing, less it best; so if in doubt, put it off a bit longer. (Another option is to start your seed in potting soil with vermicompost or worm castings mixed into it).
  • Love. Spend some time looking at your new citrus friend. Pay attention to its growth. Feel it, talk to it, sing to it, but don’t try to dance with it. Get into the habit of watching for browning leaves and checking the underside of leaves for pests. Just like us, our plants can fall victim to bugs and disease and may sometimes require some extra love and affection.

Preparing Garden Soil for Planting

Organic Garden SoilHealthy soil is the basis of healthy plants and a healthy environment. When garden soil is in good shape there is less need for fertilizers or pesticides. As author and respected gardener Frank Tozer writes, “When building soil you not only improve your plants health, but you can also improve your own.”

Organic soil is rich in humus, the end result of decaying materials such as leaves, grass clippings and compost. It holds moisture, but drains well. Good organic soil is loose and fluffy — filled with air that plant roots need — and it has plenty of minerals essential for vigorous plant growth. It is alive with living organisms — from earthworms to fungi and bacteria — that help maintain the quality of the soil. Proper pH is also an essential characteristic of healthy soil.

So, how do you know if your soil is healthy? And what do you do if it isn’t?

Determining Soil Health

Of the 17 or so elements thought to be essential for plant growth, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the most important. They are known as primary or macronutrients because plants take them from the soil in the largest amounts. Fertilizers that contain all three of these nutrients are labeled complete fertilizers, but they are hardly complete in an absolute sense. Calcium, magnesium and sulfur, known as secondary nutrients, are also important to many plants. Lesser or micronutrients include boron, copper, iron manganese and zinc. Some micronutrients have specific functions such as cobalt, which isn’t used by most plants but helps legumes fix nitrogen. Another critical component of your soil is its acid-alkaline balance or pH reading. All these essentials — and the proper texture — makes for healthy soil.

Testing

One way to determine what minerals are lacking or abundant in your soil is to get it tested. Local Cooperative Extension Services often offer low cost soil tests. These tests usually measure levels of soil pH, magnesium, phosphorus, calcium, potassium, and sometimes nitrogen. They may also report the soil’s micronutrient content, but this isn’t essential to the gardener who adds plenty of organic matter to her soil. For a less intensive test, pick up a do-it-yourself version such as the Rapitest Soil Test Kit and do your own simple, rewarding chemistry.

pH levels can be critical to your plant’s ability to absorb nutrients. Most minerals and nutrients are best available to plants in soils with a pH of between 6.5-6.8. If your soil is acidic (low pH, at or below 6.0) or alkaline (high pH, above 7.0) it doesn’t matter how rich it is in nutrients, the plants won’t be able to absorb them. pH is usually included in a soil test, or you can buy a pH Meter and determine the acid-alkaline balance of your soil on your own.

The best time to get the soil tested is in the spring or fall when it is most stable. This is also the best time to add any amendments or organic fertilizer should your soil fall short of minerals or nutrients.

Soil Texture and Type

In addition to uncovering your soil’s pH, macronutrient content and mineral levels you’ll want to examine its texture.

Soil texture depends on the amounts of sand, silt and clay it holds. A handy description of the three main soil components and an easy test to determine your soil type can be found at NASA’s Soil Science Education Page. Sand constitutes the biggest pieces of soil particles and feels gritty to the touch. Next in size are the silt particles which are slippery when wet and powdery when dry. The smallest pieces are clay. They are flat and tend to stack together like plates or sheets of paper. You don’t need an expert to determine soil texture. Just pick up a little and rub it between your fingers. If the soil feels gritty, it is considered sandy. If the soil feels smooth like talcum powder, it is silty. If the soil feels harsh when dry and slippery and sticky when wet, the soil is heavy clay. Most soils will fall somewhere in between.

Sandy soils tend to be nutrient-poor since water and nutrients rapidly drain through the large spaces between the particles of sand. These soils also tend to be low in beneficial microbes and organic matter that plants thrive on.

Silty soils are dense and do not drain well. They are more fertile than either sandy or clay soils.

Heavy clay soils are quite dense, do not drain well and tend to be hard and crack when dry. Because there isn’t much space between the clay particles, there usually isn’t much organic matter or microbial life in the soil. Plant roots have a hard time growing in the hard material.

Improving Garden Soil

Adding organic matter in the form of compost and aged manure, or using mulch or growing cover crops (green manures), is the best way to prepare soil for planting. Adding chemical fertilizers will replenish only certain nutrients and do nothing for maintaining good, friable soil. Organic matter will help supply everything your plants need.

Air

Just like humans, plants need air, both above ground for photosynthesis and in the soil as well. Air in the soil holds atmospheric nitrogen that can be converted into a usable form for plants. Soil oxygen is also crucial to the survival of soil organisms that benefit plants.

Good soil provides just the right space between its particles to hold air that plants will use. Silty and heavy clay soils have small particles that are close together. These dense soils have little air. Sandy soils have the opposite problem; their particles are too big and spaced out. The excessive amount of air in sandy soil leads to rapid decomposition of organic matter.

Adding organic matter, especially compost, will help balance the air supply (the perfect soil is about 25% air). Also, try not to step in the beds or use heavy equipment that can compact the soil. Avoid working the soil if it is very wet.

Water

All forms of life, including plants and soil organisms, need water, but not too much or too little. Healthy soil should be about 25% water.

In soils with too much pore space (sandy soils), water quickly drains through and cannot be used by plants. In dense, silt or clay soils, the soil gets waterlogged as all the pore space is filled with water. This will suffocate plant roots and soil organisms.

The best soils have both small and large pore spaces. Adding organic matter (see below) is the best way to improve the structure of your soil through the formation of aggregates. Additionally, organic matter holds water so that plants can use it when they need it.

Soil Life

A healthy organism population is essential to healthy soil. These little critters make nutrients available to plants and bind soil particles into aggregates that make the soil loose and fluffy. Soil organisms include earthworms, nematodes, springtails, bacteria, fungi, protozoa, mites and many others.

Some of these organisms can be purchased and added to the soil, but unless the environment is suitable for them, they will languish. Better to create an ideal habitat by providing the food (organic matter), air and water they need and let them thrive on their own.

Organic Matter

Adding compost will improve almost any soil. The texture of silty and clay soils, not to mention their nutrient levels, are radically improved from initially having the compost mixed in. All soils get better with annual applications on top. Organic compost can be purchased by the bag or by the yard, or you can make it yourself at home.

Compost and other organic materials hold soil particles together in aggregates and help to retain moisture. They also absorb and store nutrients that are then available to plants, and compost is a food source for beneficial microorganisms.

Making your own compost can be as easy as piling brown layers (straw, leaves), and green layers (grass clippings, livestock manure, food waste) on top of one another. Keep the pile moist and turn it often.

If a pile is too messy, or you are concerned about rodents and other animals getting into your pile, there are all kinds of composters available for purchase to contain your vegetable scraps and make turning a cinch.

Mulch

Organic (straw, hay, grass clippings, shredded bark) cover the soil and insulate it from extreme heat and cold. Mulches reduce water loss through evaporation and deter the growth of weeds. They break down slowly, enriching the soil with organic matter. Visit the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service for an in-depth discussion of mulch and mulching techniques.

Inorganic mulches (pebbles, gravel, black plastic, landscape fabrics) will prevent rapid evaporation and keep weeds down just as an organic mulch does. Unlike organic mulches, they do not need to be replaced every year and will not attract insects and rodents. However, inorganic mulches do not benefit the soil by breaking down and adding organic matter which improves soil structure and nutrient content. If you’re looking to improve your soil structure, use a clean, seed-free, high-quality garden mulch.

Fertilizer

Dry or liquid fertilizer can add nutrients to the soil that might not get there any other way. Organic garden fertilizers work a little slower than their synthetic counterparts, but they release their nutrients over a longer time frame. Additionally synthetic fertilizers are bad for the environment and can make the soil worse in the long run as beneficial microorganisms are killed off.Organic dry fertilizers are mixed into the soil according to the directions on the label and then watered. They work more slowly than liquid fertilizers, but last longer. Fertilizer blends contain different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. The ratio is listed on the label (for example 5-10-5). Other fertilizers may contain bat guano, rock phosphate, molasses or other ingredients. There are dozens of recipes for making your own organic fertilizer. Most are variations on nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium theme with added nutrients that come from seed meals, ash, lime, greensand or other mineral dusts and additional organic materials, often kelp, leaf mold or cured manures. You can find good basic recipes here and here.

Liquid fertilizers are sprayed directly on the plant foliage or onto the soil. Popular organic liquid fertilizers include fish emulsion and seaweed blends. Compost teas are another liquid fertilizer that is easy to make and takes advantage of the compost you have piling up in the yard.

If you are using a foliar spray, be sure to wet the underside of the leaves. This is where the stomata, the microscopic openings that take in gases, are located. As they open to let in carbon dioxide and release moisture, they will quickly absorb the fertilizer. Read the labels of the liquid fertilizer you choose as some could burn crops and should be applied only to soil.

Cover Crops

Cover crops are a temporary planting, usually sown in the fall, that help protect the soil from wind and erosion and add valuable organic material. They also establish a dense root structure that can have a positive effect on soil texture. Cover crops also suppress weeds, deter insects and disease and help fix nitrogen. When the crops are turned into the soil, they become green manure (see Overview of Cover Crops and Green Manures). Rye and alfalfa are common cover crops.

Cover crops are planted at the end of the growing season (winter cover cops) or during part of the growing season itself (summer cover crops). Legumes such as cowpeas, soybeans, annual sweetclover or velvet beans may be grown as summer green manure crops to add nitrogen along with organic matter. Non-legumes such as sorghum-sudangrass, millet, forage sorghum, or buckwheat are grown to provide biomass, smother weeds, and improve soil tilth.

Winter cover crops are planted in late summer or fall to provide soil cover during the off season. Choose a legume crop for the added benefit of nitrogen fixation. Growers in northern states should select cover crops, such as hairy vetch and rye, with enough cold tolerance to survive hard winters. Many more winter cover crops are adapted to the southern U.S. Cool-season legumes include clovers, vetches, medics, and field peas. They are sometimes planted in a mix with winter cereal grains such as oats, rye, or wheat.

After you have harvested your summer crops, add compost and any other amendments (such as lime) that you have determined your soil needs. Disperse the cover crop seeds and rake lightly. If you grow vegetables into the fall, plant cover crops seeds in between the rows a month or less before you expect to harvest.

Don’t let your cover crops go to seed or they may prove invasive. When spring comes around, till the crop into the soil 2-3 weeks before planting. A rototiller is an easy way to incorporate cover crops into the soil.

pH

Don’t plan on changing the pH of your soil with one dose of a wonder material. As explained at Savvy Gardener.com it should take a season or two to moderate the pH and then a little effort every year to maintain it. Whether the soil is acidic or alkaline, adding lots of organic material every year will help balance it out.

Acidic soil can be buffered with powdered limestone added to the soil in the fall. (Autumn is the primetime to do this because it takes several months to work). Be aware that plants like azaleas and blueberries grow better in acidic soil, but most plants don’t.

To raise the pH of sandy soil by about a point, add 3-4 pounds of ground limestone per 100 square feet. For loamy soil, 7-8 pounds of limestone per 100 feet should help, and 8-10 pounds per 100 feet is appropriate for heavy clay soil. Limestone should be applied at least two to three months ahead of planting to give it time to work.

Wood ash can also raise the pH of soil, but care must be taken in its use. Applying too much wood ash may result in high pH readings and take nutrients from your soil. Spread only light amounts on top of your soil in the fall and make sure to thoroughly turn the soil in the spring. Seeds that come in contact with ash may not germinate. If using wood ash every year, keep a close eye on your soil’s ph and stop using it when the proper reading is achieved.

Alkaline soil on the other hand, needs to be made more acidic. This can be done with the addition of sulfur, sawdust, conifer needles, sawdust or oak leaves. In sandy soil you can lower pH by approximately one point by adding 1 pound of ground sulfur per 100 feet to sandy soil, 1.5-2 pounds per 100 feet in loamy soil and 2 pounds per 100 feet to heavy clay soils.

Soil Texture

To make sandy soil less sandy, mix 3-4 inches of organic matter (like compost) into the soil. Use wood chips, leaves, hay, straw or bark to mulch around plants and add at least 2 inches of organic material each year. If possible, grow cover crops and turn them into the soil in the spring (see cover crops discussion above).

If silty soil is a problem, you can improve it by adding an inch of organic material each year. Try to avoid compacting the soil — don’t walk on it or till it unless absolutely necessary. Raised beds are a great way to use silty soil without having to intensively work it.

Heavy clay soil will be improved with the addition of 2-3 inches of organic matter worked into it. Then add another inch or more to the top each year. Raised beds will improve the drainage and keep you from walking on it, which can compact the soil. Try not to till unless necessary.

Nutrient Deficiencies

Typically, bone meal is recommended to boost phosphorous levels in the soil while blood meal is suggested for raising nitrogen levels. However, both of these are products of slaughterhouses. Fortunately, there are some alternatives.

In lieu of blood meal or fish emulsion, try alfalfa meal or alfalfa pellets (sold for rabbit food). Or grow alfalfa as a cover crop to make nitrogen available to plants. Alfalfa also adds a bit of phosphorous and potassium and works well as a compost accelerator.

Like alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal can be purchased at your local feed store and provides nitrogen to the soil. It is pretty acidic, however, so use it in combination with lime unless you want to lower the soil pH.

As a substitute for bone meal, add soft-rock phosphate to increase phosphorous levels.

As a side note, unless you can find organic alfalfa or cottonseed meal, adding them to the soil isn’t strictly “organic.” Non-organically grown alfalfa and cotton seed may contain pesticide and herbicide residues. Organic fertilizers will add nutrients without danger from chemicals.

 

 

 

  • Related Links

    • Cornell Turfgrass ProgramYour portal to lawn care information at Cornell University. It’s the definitive resource for both turfgrass professionals and homeowners.
    • CSU TurfgrassThe official site of the Colorado State University Turf Program. Practical advice on starting a new lawn, what grasses to use and how best to care for them.
    • Gardening & HorticultureColleges and Universities have some great gardening information. The Colorado State University Extension is one of the better ones.
    • GardenWebAn award winning site, the Garden Web hosts forums, garden exchanges, articles, contests, a plant database, the Web’s largest garden-related glossary and more.
    • Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS)Helping people understand soils! NRCS is a Federal agency that provides leadership in a partnership effort to help people conserve, maintain, and improve our natural resources and environment.
    • Soil Science Education Home PageA NASA website with chapters on Soil Basics, Working with Soil, Soil & Agriculture, and much more. You will love this site!
    • Yard & Garden Fact Sheets at Ohio StateMore than 14,000 articles are just a click or two away with answers to your questions on gardening, lawn care, and pest control, just to name a few.

How to Make a Compost Tea –from: — Wikihow.com

 

 

Great things to prepare for next Spring’s garden.. ET

Rotting GreensMature CompostCompost SprayAerated Compost Extract (ACE)Commercial Sources

Edited by Flickety, Dave Crosby, Filigree Peahen, Jason and 7 others

Compost tea is a way to give your plants a boost feed and is a great soil tonic. Compost tea is preferred over manure tea by diehard organic gardeners because it yields greater nutrients and is considered to have more integrity. And common sense thinking caps on – it’s not a tea you want to drink or inhale but one that your plants will soak up greedily.

Method 1 of 5: Rotting Greens

This is fairly simple and forms a leachate rather than a compost tea but given its age-old use, it might be useful if you have various fresh, leafy materials that can be used.

  1. 1

    Gather leafy material. Plants that are suitable include comfrey, nettles, or seaweed if you’re near the beach.

  2. 2

    Fill a bucket with water.

  3. 3

    Add the leafy material. Leave it to rot.

  4. 4

    Pour the mixture onto plants.

EditMethod 2 of 5: Mature Compost

Be aware that some people are against this method because they claim anaerobic pathogens such as e. coli can result from the “lack of oxygen” in the method. However, provided you’re not ingesting or inhaling the compost, and you wear gloves (and a mask for the truly paranoid), then this method has long been used successfully. The following method is based on that provided by Tim Marshall, in Composting.[1]

  1. 1

    Use mature compost.

  2. 2

    Place the compost into a container:

    • Place the compost in a bucket or a drum. Fill one-half to two-thirds full, then top up with water. Leave it to soak for 8 hours if you’re agitating it regularly, or for 24 hours if leaving it and only agitating a few times. Or:
    • Place the compost into a hessian sack. Suspend this sack over a drum of water. Agitate the liquid two to three times on day one then every day or two for a week. It is ready for use after a week of soaking in this manner, or you can hasten the process by stirring it more frequently.
    • Consider more frequent stirring prior to use. Some gardeners believe that this provides more suspension of the nutrients.[2]
    • In either case, never leave the compost tea brewing for longer than a month.[3]
  3. 3

    Use it. To use the compost tea, decant it into a watering can or a spray bottle/unit. The colour of the compost should be light amber; if it is darker than that, dilute it with water.[4] It can be used safely on all of the garden and is especially useful for plants that have been newly planted or transplanted, sick plants that need a tonic, potted plants during their growth season, lawns, and the vegetable patch.[5]

    • Don’t use compost tea in very cold or hot weather conditions. In summer, apply the compost tea in the early morning or afternoon. This is because the plant’s stomates are open at these times.[6]
    • It should only be used during the growing season for the plants in question.
    • Plants such as broadleaf and tree crops have stomata on the underside of their leaves, so you’ll need to ensure the entire leaves are covered.[7]
  4. 4

    Resoak. If wished, the compost can be resoaked to create more compost tea. You will need to add a little more new, matured compost each time though. When you no longer wish to use the compost that has been soaked, it can serve as mulch or as a soil additive.[8]

EditMethod 3 of 5: Compost Spray

Compost spray can be made for disease control and has been used successfully for decades.[9]Again, this recipe is adapted from Tim Marshall, Composting.[10]

  1. 1

    Place a 1 kg ice cream bucket filled with compost into a bucket of water.

  2. 2

    Agitate (stir) if for 15 minutes.

  3. 3

    Spray the resulting liquid directly onto diseased plants. It can also be used as a disease preventative on seedlings.[11]

Edit Method 4 of 5: Aerated Compost Extract (ACE)

This is the best method for using compost as a liquid extract (tea) but it requires some effort. The previous methods will effectively distribute nutrients and bugs from the compost into your garden. However, the ACE method will manage to increase the beneficial microbes and bugs immediately prior to application.[12] Again, the recipe is adapted from Tim Marshall, Composting.[13]

  1. 1

    Aerate your compost prior to use. This means it must have been turned and aerated a lot during its creation. It should have plenty of “brown” carbon source materials such as leaves, sawdust and clean cardboard in it.[14] Adding some forest soil also adds beneficial fungi according to Marc Remillard.[15]

    • When digging to aerate, be careful not to harm the hedgehogs.
  2. 2

    Only use compost that is fully mature and sweet-smelling.

  3. 3

    Place 5 to 10 litres of the fully matured, aerated, sweet-smelling compost into a 20 litre plastic bucket. Fill the rest with water.

  4. 4

    Add 250ml unsulphured molasses. Stir this into the compost tea thoroughly. You’ll need a little more molasses in cooler weather.

  5. 5

    Leave to steep for two to three days. During this time, stir now and then with a wooden stick. This will bring the compost solids up from the bottom and let them float around the liquid. As well, connect an aquarium pump that has three air stones in it. This will do the trick of maintaining the oxygen levels in the brew.

    • At this stage, if it is all sounding too complicated, it may help to point out that you can hire/rent commercial brewers if you’re still keen. However, the aquarium pump is cheap and pretty easy to set up.
  6. 6

    Smell the compost tea. It should have a sweet odor with only slight mustiness. If it smells unpleasant or too alcoholic, this means that you need to add another air stone to the aquarium pump and some a little bit more of molasses.

  7. 7

    Leave the pump on continuously while brewing.

  8. 8

    When you’re ready to use the compost tea, allow the liquid to be used to settle for 10 minutes (leave the pump on, just don’t stir it), before draining liquid into your sprayer or watering can. Get to work, as this needs to be used within the hour of your pouring it out of the oxygenated bucket. This top stuff is high in oxygen levels and ready to do battle against the nasties in your garden through the application of disease-fighting bacteria.

EditMethod 5 of 5: Commercial Sources

  1. 1

    Purchase your compost tea. It is possible to purchase compost tea from enthusiastic nurseries and organic gardener gurus with diplomas in organic gardening. Going this far really may not appeal to the average gardener without a diploma in organic gardening and an organic product business to market but if you’re keen, here are some of the things to consider.

  2. 2

    Do some reading on the various methods of making aerobic compost tea commercially and the basics of soil microbiology. They can be quite complicated because, besides the insistence that human pathogens are about to leap out at you every move you make unless a commercial method is fully put in place, there is a belief that different nutrients and protective benefits can be concocted at various temperatures, as a result of different feeds, oxygen concentrations, the initial compost used, and brewing times.[16] Research has shown that aerobic microbes provide the best results.[17] You should understand the methods used commercially to ensure they meet your requirements and make the price worthwhile.

    • Commercial production of aerobic microbes occurs using rapid oxygen-rich fermentation under controlled conditions.[18] This highly concentrated extract requires dilution before applying to plants.
  3. 3

    If you’re going to buy this extract instead of creating your own basic productions as outlined above, then do some research first before spending your hard-earned money. Talk to a local nursery that knows about the process and perhaps is even participating in it and ask plenty of questions. Follow the label closely and only keep as long as the label says, in no case beyond 6 months.Videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=dEQIxt3vIgg

  4.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=dEQIxt3vIgg 

    • Before spraying compost tea, it’s fine to add such additions as liquid seaweed, rock powders, or humic acid.[20]

    A different method of making compost tea.

    EditTips

    • The mixture is suitable for potted plants, plants in garden beds and plants growing elsewhere.
    • Use the mixture on both indoor and outdoor plants, during their growing seasons, or as advised by a decent gardening manual.
    • You can hook up an aquarium pump with a hose. Read the instructions accompanying your purchase.
    • Saplings will also get a good boost from this mixture.
    • Shaking the container of water enough to produce a froth on the surface will help to aerate the non-oxygenated versions of compost tea in this article.
    • Before spraying compost tea, it’s fine to add such additions as liquid seaweed, rock powders, or humic acid.[20]

    Warnings

    • Chlorinated water should not be used; it will kill the beneficial organisms in the compost. Use rainwater if possible, or distilled water, or fresh water from a clean source. Or, you can run tap water (mains water) over the air stones for one hour or more to drive off the chlorine.[21]
    • In all cases suggested above, do not drink, aspirate (breathe), or do anything daft with the compost tea. It’s not toxic unless you abuse it. Wear gloves when handling it and if you have respiratory issues or are worried about potential pathogens, also wear a mask.
    • There will be no human pathogens in the compost tea if there were none in the compost![22] You will read a lot about the unhealthiness of the non-oxygenated methods from people who are dead-set against them and totally won over to the oxygenated compost tea methods. As already said though, use common sense precautions and you should be fine.
    • Never store compost tea in a sealed container; well-brewed compost tea can explode through the container. It really is best to use it up once made rather than storing it.

    Things You’ll Need

    • Compost ready for use (aerated, mature, sweet-smelling)
    • Cloth /hessian bag (about library bag sized or under) or buckets as outlined per method
    • Watering can or spray bottle for distribution of tea
    • Aquarium pump for oxygenated method
    • Reputable books and magazines on gardening; be wary of marketing blurb on websites pushing their own products – do your research first
    • Mask and gloves for handling compost teas, however made
    • Dollop of common sense for proper handling of a garden product

Protea compacta From Wikipedia,

 

These are some of the most beautiful flowers I have ever seen!!! ET..
Protea compacta
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
(unranked): Angiosperms
(unranked): Eudicots
Order: Proteales
Family: Proteaceae
Genus: Protea
Species: P. compacta
Binomial name
Protea compacta

Protea compacta is similar to Protea eximia. Its distribution is from the Kleinmond to Bredasdorp Mountains and is one of the best known proteas in the cut flower industry. Its leaves curve upward.

 

 

Description[edit]

This is a popular local market cut flower in South Africa, where it is known by the common name of the Bot River protea. Its natural habitat is a narrow region of the south western Cape Province, and it occurs at altitudes less than 100m above sea level, in poor, sandy, generally highly leached acidic soils. The plants tend to grow in close groups where their stems support each other.

The plants can be cultivated in well-drained acid soils, and are tolerant of light frost and salt spray near the coast. Fresh seed germinates readily, and cuttings taken from semi-hardwood in late spring or autumn are usually successful. Visitors to South Africa can see the plant in cultivation by driving the beautiful coastal road from Gordon’s Bay to Hermanus.

Growth Habit[edit]

Erect slender bush, tending to sprawl on richer soils. May extend long stems that reach a max. of 3.5m in height. Relatively short-lived – average age ca. 10 years.

Protea compacta in its natural habitat near Hermanus, South Africa.

Leaves[edit]

Distinctive – ca. 100mm in length, 50mm in width; soft and pilose when young becoming leathery and glabrous with age; margins entire and often reddish; carried closely to the stems causing the stems to appear neat in appearance.

Flowers[edit]

The blooms are a striking pink colour and shaped like the bowl of a wineglass, the outer involucral bracts tending to fade towards the base; up to 120mm long and up 90mm in circumference, carried on long stems of ca. 500mm in length with the bloom at the apex; usual flowering period is early to mid-winter, but may occasionally flower at other times. The colour of the flowers can be quite variable in intensity, and a natural white variety does occur. The bracts are slightly translucent making the flowers particularly radiant when backlit by the sun.

References[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Protea compacta.
  • van Wyk, B. and van Wyk, P. 1997. Field Guide to trees of South Africa. Struik, Cape Town
  • Pooley, E. 2005. A Field Guide to Wild Flowers of Kwazulu-Natal and the Eastern Region. National Floral Publications Trust, Durban
  • Matthews, L. 1993. Proteas of the World. Bok Books, Durban.
  • Rousseau, F. 1970. The Proteaceae of South Africa. Purnell, Cape Town.